Puerto Williams to Valparaiso

Puerto Williams is a town on Navarino Island in the Beagle Channel in Chile’s far south. Part of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, it’s known as a starting point for trips around Cape Horn. It’s also a gateway to trails around the jagged peaks of the nearby Dientes de Navarino. In town, the Martin Gusinde Anthropological Museum traces the history of the region’s former inhabitants, the indigenous Yaghan people.

A southerly frontier – on the cusp of wild nature and extraordinary adventures – the excitement in Ushuaia is palpable. Prepare for memorable exploits amid the extremes of this southerly location – as you adventure into the colossal scenery of the fractured Tierra del Fuego and beyond. Known as the ‘End of the World’ Ushuaia looks out across the Beagle Channel, and is surrounded by the Martial Mountains to the north. Despite its remote location, Ushuaia is a surprisingly busy and lively resort, with lots to keep its visitors entertained. View less

For many people, Ushuaia is their last glimpse of anything resembling a city, before they jump off the map into the wilderness, to answer the call of immense national parks or Antarctic expeditions. One of the most dramatic landscapes on the planet – Argentina’s land of fire, National Park Tierra del Fuego, is a place of titanic natural forces and limitless beauty. Snow-covered mountains poke the sky, while glaciers spill down between peaks, and gaping fjords open up. With incredible wildlife – from penguins to whales – the park offers some of South America’s most amazing hiking opportunities and panoramas. When it comes to food in Ushuaia, locals cook up fierce flavours using the freshest ingredients. King crab is one of the most popular dishes, while sea bass – hauled freshly from the waters – and mounds of meaty mussels – known as cholgas – are also on the menu here.

As we head back towards land, a statue of fellow explorer Ferdinand Magellan greets us. Located on the western side of the Strait of Magellan, Punta Arenas is the capital of Chile’s Magallanes Region and the bustling centre base for South Atlantic fishing boats and Antarctic research vessels. This busy port town is a melding of cultures from the English sheep ranchers to Portuguese sailors, all of which are a symbol of Chile’s rich history. Punta Arenas’ city centre features impressive mansions dating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
In 1982, Isla Magdalena was declared a Chilean Natural Monument. Residing in the Magellan Straits, it serves as a bird sanctuary specifically to the Magellanic penguins, who share their nesting area with cormorants amongst other seabirds and sea lions. We explore the island together with our ship staff, and learn more about these naturally curious and untamed creatures. However, simply watching 150,000 burrowing penguins share chores with their lifelong mates is quite amazing. Each morning and afternoon, the fishing penguins return to shore to switch places with their mate who has been taking care of the young. These same penguins return every year between October and March to lay eggs and raise their young.

Winding through the vast expanses of the Chilean Fjords will reveal mountains looming on both sides, waterfalls, and the marvel of hardy flora clinging to barren rocks. Seals and dolphins patrol the length of these uninhabited fjords as they have done for millennia. Small fishing-boats come out of Punta Arenas luring fish and trapping for king crab, while terns dip and glide coaxing their own small fish out of the deep, dark fjord waters amongst tiny islands thick with vegetation.

Within Bernardo O’Higgins National Park the Pio XI Glacier (also known as Brüggen Glacier after the German geologist Johannes Brüggen) is found at the terminus of the 23 nautical miles long Eyre Fjord, one of the fjords coming from the northeast and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The fjord and its shores were formerly used by the nomadic Kaweskar to hunt, while the glacier was one of their sacred sites. Pio XI Glacier is the largest western outflow of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and is South America’s longest glacier and the largest in the Southern Hemisphere outside of Antarctica. One of the few advancing glaciers, its front has a width of 4.5 kilometers, a height of approximately 80 meters and shows several central moraines, indicating that Greve Glacier and Occidental Glacier to the north once joined the glacial tongue. Approaching the glacier by ship and by Zodiac safe distances will be maintained, as the glacier shows extensive mudflats on its southeastern side leading to Exmouth Fjord and calvings can always occur. The rocky shore shows signs of Nothofagus trees and the temperate Magellanic rain forest where the extremely rare and endangered South Andean deer, locally known as the huemul, has been sighted. Chilean and Peale’s dolphins and the endangered southern river otters have been recorded, and South American sea lions can be seen. Among the birds expected are Imperial Shags, South American Terns, Brown-hooded Gulls, Kelp Gulls, Kelp Geese, and Fuegian Steamer Ducks.

Tortel is a commune located in Southern Patagonia, a spectacular wilderness region of rugged mountains, glaciers, rivers and forests of infinite beauty. The uneven geography of Tortel shapes a unique landscape, characterized by an archipelagic area with numerous islands and channels. View less

Tortel is known as the “footbridge city” for the unique beauty of its wooden walkways that connect the piers and houses of this quaint place through bridges and stairs, built from cypress wood, that run for four and a half miles around the cove and that respect the rich vegetation that grows under them. Even though it is the sixth largest commune in Chile, it has the lowest population of all with roughly 531 people. The history of the town dates back to 1520 when it was inhabited by nomadic Kawesqar, now extinct. Its definitive foundation was in 1955, after numerous attempts to populate the area. In 2001, it was declared by the Chilean government as a Picturesque Zone of National Heritage.

Located on the northern tip of the vast Reloncavi Bay, Puerto Montt is the gateway to the Chilean Lake District. Crowding the harbor are vessels that ply the route between Cape Horn and Puerto Montt, finding shelter here from the storms of the Pacific.

The first German colonists arrived in this area in 1852; their descendants have remained a small but influential percentage of the 130,000 inhabitants. The town spreads along a narrow seaboard and climbs the slopes that enclose Puerto Montt to the north. Since 1985, the city has experienced considerable growth and development. In addition to some 30 salmon farms, fishing and forestry industries, there are service companies, new hotels, restaurants, cafés and a variety of shops. For the visitor, the town itself offers scant attractions apart from shingle-roofed houses around a flowered central square. It is its proximity to the lake and mountain region that makes Puerto Montt a sought after starting point for many travelers.

A short distance from the pier is the small fishing port of Angelmo. Its row of stalls lining both sides of the street offers a wide variety of regional handicrafts and souvenir items.

Since time immemorial Valparaiso has inspired writers, poets, musicians and artists alike. If the city is still a little rough around the edges, this only adds to its bohemian ambience; the architecture, style, street art, nightlife, and live music scenes of Valparaiso are some of the best in the world. Add colourful clifftop homes to the mix and you’ll soon see why Valpariaso is many people’s favourite Chilean city. The city was founded in 1536 by Spanish conquistador Juan de Saavedra, who named the city after his birthplace. View less

Many of the colonial buildings he implemented are still standing today, despite the rain, wind, fire and several earthquakes (one of which almost levelled the city in 1906). Quirky architecture also abounds; poetry lovers and amateur architects will no doubt want to make the 45 km trip south to Chilean poet laureate (and Nobel Prize winner) Pablo Neruda’s ship-shaped house and museum for a taste of the extraordinary. The city and region are also extremely well known for their love of good food and wine. The vineyards of the nearby Casablanca Valley – first planted in the early 1980s – have earned worldwide recognition in a relatively short space of time. However, Chile’s viticulture history does date back much farther than that. De Saavedra brought grape vines on his voyage to South America in order to make his own wine and this led to a new grape brandy being created, Pisco. Today give any Chilean a Pisco and wherever they are in the world, they will be home.