Northern Europe: Exploring the British Isles & the Baltic

Edinburgh is to London as poetry is to prose, as Charlotte Brontë once wrote. One of the world’s stateliest cities and proudest capitals, it’s built—like Rome—on seven hills, making it a striking backdrop for the ancient pageant of history. In a skyline of sheer drama, Edinburgh Castle watches over the capital city, frowning down on Princes Street’s glamour and glitz. But despite its rich past, the city’s famous festivals, excellent museums and galleries, as well as the modern Scottish Parliament, are reminders that Edinburgh has its feet firmly in the 21st century.Nearly everywhere in Edinburgh (the burgh is always pronounced burra in Scotland) there are spectacular buildings, whose Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian pillars add touches of neoclassical grandeur to the largely Presbyterian backdrop. Large gardens are a strong feature of central Edinburgh, where the city council is one of the most stridently conservationist in Europe. Arthur’s Seat, a mountain of bright green and yellow furze, rears up behind the spires of the Old Town. This child-size mountain jutting 822 feet above its surroundings has steep slopes and little crags, like a miniature Highlands set down in the middle of the busy city. Appropriately, these theatrical elements match Edinburgh’s character—after all, the city has been a stage that has seen its fair share of romance, violence, tragedy, and triumph.Modern Edinburgh has become a cultural capital, staging the Edinburgh International Festival and the Fringe Festival in every possible venue each August. The stunning Museum of Scotland complements the city’s wealth of galleries and artsy hangouts. Add Edinburgh’s growing reputation for food and nightlife and you have one of the world’s most beguiling cities.Today the city is the second most important financial center in the United Kingdom, and the fifth most important in Europe. The city regularly is ranked near the top in quality-of-life surveys. Accordingly, New Town apartments on fashionable streets sell for considerable sums. In some senses the city is showy and materialistic, but Edinburgh still supports learned societies, some of which have their roots in the Scottish Enlightenment. The Royal Society of Edinburgh, for example, established in 1783 “for the advancement of learning and useful knowledge,” remains an important forum for interdisciplinary activities.Even as Edinburgh moves through the 21st century, its tall guardian castle remains the focal point of the city and its venerable history. Take time to explore the streets—peopled by the spirits of Mary, Queen of Scots; Sir Walter Scott; and Robert Louis Stevenson—and pay your respects to the world’s best-loved terrier, Greyfriars Bobby. In the evenings you can enjoy candlelit restaurants or a folk ceilidh (pronounced kay-lee, a traditional Scottish dance with music), though you should remember that you haven’t earned your porridge until you’ve climbed Arthur’s Seat. Should you wander around a corner, say, on George Street, you might see not an endless cityscape, but blue sea and a patchwork of fields. This is the county of Fife, beyond the inlet of the North Sea called the Firth of Forth—a reminder, like the mountains to the northwest that can be glimpsed from Edinburgh’s highest points, that the rest of Scotland lies within easy reach.

The Isle of May in Scotland is owned and managed by Scottish Natural Heritage as a National Nature Reserve and is an important breeding ground for approximately one-quarter of a million seabirds. In fact, over 40,000 puffin burrows have been counted as occupied. Not only kittiwakes, shags, eiders, and guillemots but also Razorbills, Arctic Terns, Sandwich Terns and Common Terns, Lesser Gulls, Herring Gulls and Great Black-backed Gulls nest here. View less

The island is located roughly four nautical miles off the coast of mainland Scotland and is used by biologists for surveying migrating passerines and for ringing breeding seabirds to better study their movements and breeding success. While hosting an impressive array and quantity of seabirds, the island itself is small at only 1.8 kilometers (1.1 miles) long, and less than half a kilometer (one-third of a mile) wide.

Loch Ewe is the only north facing Loch in Scotland, with an interesting history and a fine scenic landscape this area has a true natural beauty. During WW2 the loch was a convoy collecting point with a strong naval presence; it was therefore protected by light and heavy aircraft guns, a boom net and mine defence system helped to shield this precious settlement

The stunning Isle of Lunga is the largest island in the Treshnish archipelago. With volcanic origin the isle was populated until the 19th Century, and remains of black houses can be seen around this magnificent coastal jewel. Abundant plant life and exotic birdlife are now the main inhabitants of the area. Fortunate visitors view the magnificent array of birds, especially the great puffins that breed on the islands plateau. One can sit within just a few feet away without disturbing the avian ambassador’s peace. View less

The 81 hectare island is home to many rare and endangered plants such as, primroses and orchids. Views over the landscape and across the ocean can be seen from the 300 foot high cliffs.

If tiny islands that resonate with peace and tranquillity are your idea of travel heaven, then welcome to Iona. Almost 200 miles east of Edinburgh, set in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, this magical island has a spiritual reputation that precedes it. And luckily, more than lives up to. The island is miniscule. Just three miles long and only one and a half miles wide, this is not a place that hums with urban attractions. View less

120 people call Iona home (this number rises significantly if the gull, tern and Kittiwake population is added), although residential numbers do go up (to a whopping 175) in summer. The beautiful coastline is lapped by the gulf stream and gives the island a warm climate with sandy beaches that look more Mediterranean than Scottish! Add to that a green field landscape that is just beautiful, and you’ll find that Iona is a place that stays with you long after you leave. Iona’s main attraction is of course its abbey. Built in 563 by Saint Columbia and his monks, the abbey is the reason why Iona is called the cradle of Christianity. Not only is the abbey (today an ecumenical church) one of the best – if not the best – example of ecclesiastical architecture dating from the Middle Ages, but it also serves as an important site of spiritual pilgrimage. St. Martin’s Cross, a 9th century Celtic cross that stands outside the abbey, is considered as the finest example of Celtic crosses in the British Isles. Rèilig Odhrain, or the cemetery, allegedly contains the remains of many Scottish kings.

Gloriously remote, St. Kilda is an archipelago 50 miles off the Isle of Harris. Although the four islands are uninhabited by humans, thousands of seas birds call these craggy cliffs home, clinging to the sheer faces as if by magic. Not only is St. Kilda home to the UK’s largest colony of Atlantic Puffin (almost 1 million), but also the world largest colony Gannets nests on Boreray island and its sea stacks. View less

The islands also home decedents of the world’s original Soay sheep as well as having a breed of eponymously named mice. The extremely rare St. Kilda wren unsurprisingly hails from St. Kilda, so birders should visit with notebook, binoculars and camera to hand. While endemic animal species is rife on the island, St. Kilda has not been peopled since 1930 after the last inhabitants voted that human life was unsustainable. However, permanent habitation had been possible in the Medieval Ages, and a vast National Trust for Scotland project to restore the dwellings is currently being undertaken. The islands even enjoyed a status as being an ideal holiday destination in the 19th century. Today, the only humans living on the islands are passionate history, science and conservation scholars. One of the caretakers even acts as shopkeeper and postmaster for any visitors who might like to send a postcard home from St. Kilda. It should be noted that St. Kilda is the UKs only (and just one of 39 in the world) dual World Heritage status from UNESCO in recognition of its Natural Heritage and cultural significance.

Scattered just off the northern tip of Scotland, Kirkwall is the capital of the Orkney Islands – a scenic archipelago of fascinating, dual heritage. The Viking influence is deep, while a prehistoric past and World War history adds to the endless stories that these dramatic islands have to tell. Sparse and beautiful, let the sweeping seascapes of frothing waves, and dance of the northern lights, enchant you as you explore. Windswept beaches are inhabited by whooping swans, while grassy cliffs hide puffins amid their wavy embrace. View less

Sea caves and crumbling castles – and the dramatic meeting of the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean add to the romantic beauty of these lands, which may be physically close to the UK, but feel an entire world away. The sandstone St. Magnus Cathedral is the centrepiece of Orkney’s main town – a place of winding lanes and atmospheric walks – and Britain’s northernmost cathedral is a masterpiece that took 300 years to complete. Started in 1137, the beautiful cathedral is adorned with mesmerising stain-glass windows and has been evocatively named as the Light of the North. Look down over the ruined Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces nearby from the tip of the cathedral’s tower. Or, test out the islands’ history-rich distilleries, which produce smokey single malts – said to be the best in the world. You can also venture out to Europe’s best-preserved Stone Age Village, at the extraordinary World Heritage Site of Skara Brae, which offers an unparalleled vision into prehistoric life.

Lying mid-way between Shetland and the Orkney islands, Fair Isle is a tiny jewel in the sea. Famous for birds, knitwear and historic shipwrecks, the island offers a warm and friendly welcome to visitors. With a population of only around 70 people this island is truly a beautiful setting and is one of Britain’s most successful communities. View the cloudy light turquoise water as it drifts out to sea beneath the breath-taking Sheep Rock, rising over 100 metres, which is almost an isle of its own.

Adrift between the Scottish and Norwegian coasts, the craggy Shetland Islands form the most northerly point of the British Isles. Sprawling across 100 islands, connected by sandy bridges and crisscrossing ferries, explore the highlights of this scenic archipelago outpost. With incredible Neolithic history, spanning 5,000 years of human heritage, these islands, which sit just shy of the Arctic Circle, are an isolated and immense treasure trove of history and thrilling scenery. Look out over dramatic coastline from atmospheric Iron Age towers.

Exploring the sandstone cliff faces of the Isle of Noss will reveal ledges loaded with gannets, puffins, guillemots, shags, kittiwakes, Razorbills, fulmars and Great Skuas. The island was recognized as a National Nature Reserve in 1955, and has one of Europe’s largest and most diverse seabird colonies. Sheep have grazed the inland hillsides of Noss since the late 1800s and early 1900s when around twenty people lived on the island to manage the sheep farm. Along with the sheep, shaggy Shetland ponies graze the windblown slopes of Noss.

Rosendal, with its mountains and waterfalls, is one of Norway’s more romantic villages. Cut off from the rest of the world by high mountains and the Folgefonna National Park, and home to just 800 year round inhabitants, to say the village is in a little world of its own is no exaggeration! While Rosendal might lack for urban excitement, you certainly couldn’t want to find a more beautiful setting. View less

Soaring mountains peaks, narrow winding fjords, impressive waterfalls and the third largest glacier in Norway are all par for the norm here, as are breathtaking glacier views and some of the freshest air you’ll ever experience. The village was famously a wedding present to Ludvig Holgersen Rosenkrantz’s daughter in 1658. Rosenkrantz was the wealthiest man in the country at the time, owning over 500 farms all over western Norway. The great manor house built shortly after the wedding still stands, along with beautifully maintained gardens that were added 300 years later. The house is a wonderful reflection of the different periods styles of the various illustrious owners and restoration has been painstakingly carried out. The oldest rooms are still decorated as they were in the early 19th century while the library is the only 17th century room in Norway kept in its entirety, complete with the original rich French tapestry from the 1660’s. No visit to this little village would be complete without a taste of local life. Pop into a tea shop for a traditional griddlecake, enjoyed amid splendid waterfront views.

Effortlessly cool and down to earth, Copenhagen is a contemporary, clean and classy highlight of Scandinavia. A city built to be liveable, Copenhagen has refused to compromise, resulting in a forward-thinking metropolis that’s green and clean. Swim in the waters of Havnebadet Islands during summer, or shelter from winter’s bite by snuggling in beside a roaring open fire during winter. You can even hop on a train to Sweden, traversing the famous span of a Nordic Noir star – the Öresund Bridge.

It takes just a touch over half an hour to step off the train in Malmö. There’s only one way to truly explore Copenhagen and that’s on two wheels. Easy bike hire schemes will get you moving across this flat city, designed with bikes at the forefront of the mind. Choose a model with electronic assistance to take the strain out of any journey, giving you the freedom to whizz around and explore the modern angular architecture of the centre, and the pastoral colours of Nyhavn waterfront. Head out to the Little Mermaid statue, inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale – the strikingly-restrained statue is the perfect landmark for Copenhagen; unshowy, self-assured and utterly irresistible. The Danish concept of hygge is very much alive here, and you’ll feel that warm cosy feeling as you visit cafes illuminated by the warm glow of hanging filament bulbs, and stuffed to the brim with thick, dusty books. Home to mega-brewer Carlsberg, Copenhagen is also a city for hop enthusiasts, and there is a thriving craft brewing scene to sample. Danish Smørrebrød sandwiches are a must try, or for something a little more substantial, settle in for a culinary voyage and try a taster menu – the city’s restaurants are littered with Michelin stars.

With its origins going back to the 10th century, prewar Gdansk – or Danzig as it was known then – was forged by years of Prussian and Hanseatic domination. The battles to liberate the city in 1945 resulted in almost total destruction.
Gdansk’s historic center was rebuilt with great reverence; today it represents one of the richest and most lavish complexes of architectural relics in Poland. Entering the historic quarter is like walking straight into a Hansa merchants’ settlement. Huge stone gateways guard both entrances to the main thoroughfare. The well-proportioned tower of the town hall makes a powerful impact and the main square is surrounded by stately mansions. One of the most prominent buildings is Artus Court, formerly the residence of Gdansk’s rulers. Gigantic St. Mary’s Church reputedly is the largest brick church in the world, able to accommodate 25,000 people. Dominating the waterside is the seven-story Great Mill, once the largest mill in medieval Europe.

Klaipėda is a port city in Lithuania, where the Baltic Sea meets the Danė River. The old town features German-style, 18th-century wood-framed buildings.

The island of Gotland, with its magnificent walled town of Visby, is one of Sweden’s most popular summer destinations and an outstanding tourist attraction. Already settled in the Stone Age, Visby reached prominence in medieval times when it was annexed by the powerful Hanseatic League, a confederation of merchants in Northern Europe. By the 13th century, Visby was a prosperous commercial centre that minted its own coins and had a code of law.
There are medieval fortifications encircling the entire settlement. The actual purpose of these massive walls, built at the end of the 13th century, was not to protect from enemy attacks, but rather to isolate the local population from the city’s foreign traders. The burghers were quick to retaliate during the power struggle in 1361 between Denmark and Sweden. When the Danes took Gotland by force and advanced on Visby, the locals shut the gates and sat through the slaughter that took place outside. Inside the city, the merchants surrendered and a section of the wall was broken down to allow the Danish king to enter Visby as conqueror.

Gotland is also noted for its medieval churches. In Visby alone more than ten remain; only the Church of St. Mary’s, which served the German merchants during the city’s commercial heyday, is still in use. The Hanseatic Harbour at Almedalen is now a public park. On the opposite side are the lush Botanical Gardens and just beyond, the Maiden’s Tower. Legend has it that a goldsmith’s daughter was walled up here alive, reputedly for betraying the city to the Danes.
Tourism today strongly relies on the island’s numerous beaches and temperate climate. The latter is responsible for roses blooming almost year-round, sometimes even as late as Christmas. This phenomenon has earned Visby the name “Town of Roses and Ruins”. With the city’s medieval atmosphere intact, Visby serves as an authentic backdrop for its annual Medieval Week in August. One of the peak happenings is the joust – a medieval spectacle with knights, parades and acrobats entertaining young and old.

Today Riga is a vibrant and cosmopolitan port city, as well as one of the finest old towns in northern Europe. Old Riga’s skyline is a rich collage of architectural styles, ranging from austere romanesque and pointed gothic to baroque facades and renaissance pediments. The spectacular 13th-century cathedral is an amalgam of all four.

Saaremaa is an Estonian island in the Baltic Sea. It’s known for its beaches, spas and traditional villages. Its southern capital, Kuressaare, is home to medieval Kuressaare Castle. It houses the Saaremaa Museum, with exhibits on Estonian culture and handicrafts, plus weapons in the castle fortress. Nearby, the Kaali meteorite crater field includes a cluster of ancient craters and a museum of meteor remains.

This pretty seaside town has more than an element of chocolate box to it. Narrow cobbled streets flanked by painted wooden cottages and overflowing flower boxes may seem a little twee to the urbanite, but once you let yourself be charmed by its olde-world fairy-tale magic, you will soon fall in love. Rauma also has the happy label of being the largest unified wooden town in the Nordic countries, and has a UNESCO World Heritage badge of honour to prove it.

Örnsköldsvik is a locality and the seat of Örnsköldsvik Municipality in Västernorrland County, Sweden, with 32,953 inhabitants in 2017. Its natural harbour and archipelago is in the Gulf of Bothnia and the northern boundaries of the High Coast area.

Oulu is a city in central Finland, where the Oulujoki River meets the Bay of Bothnia. Its waterfront square, Kauppatori, is home to food stalls and the Toripolliisi, a squat policeman statue. The Tietomaa Science Centre offers interactive exhibits and a large cinema screen for 3D films. Nearby, the Oulu Museum Of Art showcases regional works. The Northern Ostrobothnia Museum chronicles the city’s cultural history.

Oulu is a city in central Finland, where the Oulujoki River meets the Bay of Bothnia. Its waterfront square, Kauppatori, is home to food stalls and the Toripolliisi, a squat policeman statue. The Tietomaa Science Centre offers interactive exhibits and a large cinema screen for 3D films. Nearby, the Oulu Museum Of Art showcases regional works. The Northern Ostrobothnia Museum chronicles the city’s cultural history.

“A thriving, flawlessly-designed seaside city, Helsinki is famously livable and inspiring. A regional powerhouse of outstanding design and creativity, Helsinki lies across a confetti scattering of 300 islands and skerries in the Gulf of Finland. Known for the light granite hue of its buildings – which lend the city a bright, whitewashed appearance – traditional buildings mingle seamlessly with bold new structures, showcasing Finland’s celebrated design outlook. Helsinki Cathedral is the crowning glory – rising high over the city’s waterfront with its pearly white domes gleaming. View less

A city that reveres knowledge and creativity above all else, artworks and statues litter the streets and parks, honouring creative minds of the past. Open parks offer space to lie back and soak up summer’s sun, while sculptures like the abstract organs of the Sibelius Monument celebrate national heroes like composer Jean Sibelius – whose music gave Finland national identity in the quest for independence. Feel the stunning acoustics of the incredible Rock Church deep in your gut, as you witness a performance in this collaboration between man and nature. Built into the rock underground, the amphitheatre’s soaring copper bowl roof is suspended dramatically on a bed of glass windows. One of Helsinki’s many incredible buildings, the Design Museum offers a comprehensive insight into the city’s balance of style, function and form. Helsinki’s easy-going, forward-thinking way of life was hard fought for, and the spectacular Suomenlinna fortress rears out of the waves as a reminder of the historical struggles that have played out in this stretch of sea. The chain of forts covers six islands and was built to defend the archipelago when it fell under Swedish rule. Sail out to the quaint little beaches, and waterfront pathways that now lend a calm, peaceful ambience to this UNESCO World Heritage Site.”