Cities & Splendours of the Adriatic

Embarkation takes place in Dubrovnik, where limestone walls enclose a city that stayed an independent republic until the French dissolved it in 1808. The main street, the Stradun, follows the line of a channel that once separated the original island settlement from the mainland. The statue of Saint Blaise watches over the Pile Gate. Fort Saint John, set into the harbour walls, holds a maritime museum and an aquarium of Adriatic fish.

A second day in Dubrovnik leaves time for the city walls, a circuit of about two kilometres above the rooftops and the harbour. Inside, the Rector’s Palace recalls the republic that rivalled Venice for Adriatic trade. The Franciscan monastery houses one of the oldest working pharmacies in Europe, open since 1317. The cable car up Mount Srđ gives a view across the walled city to the Elaphiti Islands.

Greek settlers from Paros founded Stari Grad on the north coast of Hvar in 384 BC and divided the fertile plain behind it into rectangular plots. Farmers still work those plots, and the Stari Grad Plain holds UNESCO World Heritage status for it. The same land produces the island’s wine and olive oil. Local producers in the upper town sell cured ham and cheese.

Bol sits on the southern shore of Brač, an island whose pale limestone built Diocletian’s Palace in Split and later the White House in Washington. Houses with red tiled roofs line the harbour, and a pine-shaded promenade leads to Zlatni Rat, the golden horn, a pebble spit whose tip shifts with the wind and currents. From the summit of Vidova Gora, the highest point on any Adriatic island, the spit and neighbouring islands spread out below.

We have no doubt that the authenticity of this little island in Kvarner bay will charm you beyond belief. Dating from Adriatic Antiquity, its name means “wooded lands” in reference to the pinewoods, cypresses and cork oaks surrounding the main town. This town is called Rab, like the island. Here, you will see architecture of Venetian influence, inherited from the Middle Ages, illustrated by the bell-tower. Below, the ramparts provide views embracing the entire coastline, punctuated by deserted creeks.

Viewed from above, the Brijuni archipelago forms rounded shapes in dazzling colours against the blue hues of the Adriatic. This group of 14 Istrian islands has been inhabited by man since the Bronze Age, thanks to its mild climate and favourable geographical position. The architectural heritage of these islands is very significant, since Roman ruins from the 1st century BC can be found here. Vestiges from the Byzantine and Venetian periods round off this deep-dive into the past which continues right up to the 19th century with the arrival of the Austrian industrialist Paul Kupelwieser. By purchasing Veliki Brijun, the largest island in the group, he actively contributed to the reputation of the archipelago among the Austro-Hungarian aristocrats of the Belle Époque. Later on, great political leaders such as Marshal Tito, the former president of Yugoslavia, would mingle here with the great writers of the time, including James Joyce or Thomas Mann. The islands were granted national park status in 1983, for their natural beauty and their biodiversity. Discover this unique corner of paradise on a bike or in a kayak, via land or from the refreshing waters of the Mediterranean.

The Pearl of the Adriatic, lying at the southern tip of the Istrian Peninsula, Pula is undoubtedly the most Roman of all Croatian towns. Some of the greatest pages in history were written here, as the breathtaking ancient remains testify. Take your pick exploring the amphitheatre, the Twin Gates, the Gate of Hercule and the triumphal Arch of the Sergii. Stroll through the busy lanes in the old town, enjoying the warm welcome of the locals, and perhaps you will be tempted to try the famous Kvarner scampi or Istrian ham.

On the Slovenian coast, the picturesque town of Piran stands on a tongue of land bathed by the Adriatic. Its old town, girded by fortifications, provides a medieval atmosphere embossed with Venetian nuances. From Tartini square, you can explore a whole interweave of mysterious streets located on the hillside, leading you to Saint George’s church, built on a hillock overlooking the shoreline. After admiring the view, don’t miss a good look at the nave, and its rich decorations of frescoes and panelling. You will also see that the tower built behind the church reproduces the famous bell-tower of Saint Mark’s square. During your peregrinations, make sure you try a borek, a sort of pasty which can be sweet or savoury, filled with meat or fruit.

Proud and eternal, Venice has reigned on its lagoon ever since the 6th century. You may think you know this city before even setting foot here. You will inevitably fall in love with the charm of the innumerable treasures of the Serenissima: Saint Mark’s square, the basilica, Doges palace, the Grand Canal and the gondolas. Yet, secret Venice is also waiting for you to explore its little interlacing streets and canals, to ramble through its squares and to push open the doors of its churches. The city’s extraordinary heritage shouldn’t stop you from enjoying a glass of Spritz and a few tramezzini.