Hong Kong to Busan

A spectacular, serrated skyline of soaring towers and neon lights, Hong Kong is a vibrant, immersive metropolis and cultural hub. Dramatic harbour-front light shows transform the waterfront’s gleaming buildings into a colourful canvas – best seen from the Star Ferry, when the Symphony of Lights blares into life each evening. A city where future and tradition collides – perhaps best illustrated by the skyscrapers that feature gaping holes, designed to allow spirit dragons to soar from the hills to the waterfront unimpeded. View less

Wander flowing shopping streets, wade through sprawling markets and soak up the neon glory of this one-of-a-kind city – which continues to reach for the sky. Hong Kong’s dense jumble of activity is one of its main appeals, but once you’ve felt the thrill of rising to towering observation decks, to see the soaring city from above, it’s surprisingly easy to find peace among Hong Kong’s intense urban wonders. Victoria Peak is the highest point and it offers staggering views down over the city and harbour. The Peak Tram funicular can ferry you to the top, to the vantage point which was historically adored by the rich for the cooler air found here, away from the busy bustle of the city streets. Many elaborate temples add a tranquil element to Hong Kong’s whirr, and Tin Hau temple has a surprisingly urban location, considering its dedication to the Goddess of the Sea. It did once occupy the shorefront, but the city’s growth saw land reclaimed from the sea around it, leaving the temple marooned inland. Having been leased to the British for 99 years, milky tea is a revered tradition here – enjoy your cup with a serving of local dim sum.While it’s easy to think all the bright lights are the sum of today’s Hong Kong, you need only walk or board a tram for the short jaunt west into Western to discover a side of Hong Kong that is more traditionally Chinese but no less high-energy. You’ll discover the real Hong Kong to the east of Central, too, in Wan Chai, Causeway Bay, and beyond. Amid the residential towers are restaurants, shopping malls, bars, convention centers, a nice smattering of museums, and—depending on fate and the horse you wager on—one of Hong Kong’s luckiest or unluckiest spots, the Happy Valley Racecourse. Kowloon sprawls across a generous swath of the Chinese mainland across Victoria Harbour from Central. Tsim Sha Tsui, at the tip of Kowloon peninsula, is packed with glitzy shops, first-rate museums, and eye-popping views of the skyline across the water. Just to the north are the teeming market streets of Mong Kok and in the dense residential neighborhoods beyond, two of Hong Kong’s most enchanting spiritual sights, Wong Tai Sin Temple and Chi Lin Nunnery. As you navigate this huge metropolis (easy to do on the excellent transportation network), keep in mind that streets are usually numbered odd on one side, even on the other. There’s no baseline for street numbers and no block-based numbering system, but street signs indicate building numbers for any given block.

Located on the north coast of Taiwan, and embraced by lush green mountains, Keelung City is Taiwan’s second-biggest port and a major gateway to Taipei’s glittering lights and spectacular skyscrapers. It can get a little damp here at times – the city is known as the ‘Rainy Port’ after all – but even the elements fail to dampen the spirits in this Taiwanese hotbed of tradition, modernity and rich culture. View less

Keelung is famous for its Mid-Summer Ghost festival – when dragons decorated with flowers and spitting pyrotechnics are paraded through the streets. Flickering lanterns glitter on the water’s waves, creating a beautiful, ethereal scene. If you do linger in Keelung, witness the city coming to life as the sun dips – and Keelung Miaokou night market floods with people below a blinding wash of lights. Most will choose to take the ride to the country’s capital, Taipei, and visit this mesmerising modern city, which blends influences from around the world. A quirky city of museums and countless bustling markets. Stands and stalls work late into the night, serving up every food you can imagine. Wander between the salivating smells and rising flames of open fires, which cook up everything from fried oysters to chicken and fish pastries – as you ride the all-out sensory assault of the city’s bustling markets. Incredible temples are sprinkled across Taipei, such as Bao-An Temple, a peaceful, incense-infused place of colourful artistry. The country’s heritage is reflected in towering new architecture like the tiered pagoda of the Taipei 101 skyscraper, which dominates the skyline from every angle.

The bright lights of neighbouring big city Seoul might burn brightly but Incheon, just 27 kilometres away, has nothing to be ashamed of. The coastal city was the first to open its borders to the world in 1883, and as such has always enjoyed a special relationship with the west. So much so that it was granted “English Status” in 2007, with many residents priding themselves on their command of the language. View less

The city’s love of English has made it a business powerhouse so expect soaring skyscrapers and smart technology as part of the landscape. Incheon was also the first to welcome the Chinese and today the city’s Chinatown is one of the most vibrant and welcoming there is. A frenetic and exciting hybrid of Chinese and Korean heritage, it is said that Jjajangmyeon (black soy bean noodles), South Korea’s de facto national dish originates from here. Try a steaming bowl from one of the many vendors, then walk it off with the short 15-minute stroll from Chinatown to the traditional Sinpo Market for different kind of sensational feast. The city is steeped in history, notably in recent times during the Korean War. In 1950, the US general General MacArthur led UN forces behind enemy lines in freeing the city from North Korean pressure. MacArthur’s victory is commemorated by a statue in the Jaya (Freedom) Park. The city’s history of course goes back much further, with the first historical record dating as far back as 475 CE. At the time the city was called Michuhol, only changing its name to Incheon in 1413.

The bright lights of neighbouring big city Seoul might burn brightly but Incheon, just 27 kilometres away, has nothing to be ashamed of. The coastal city was the first to open its borders to the world in 1883, and as such has always enjoyed a special relationship with the west. So much so that it was granted “English Status” in 2007, with many residents priding themselves on their command of the language. View less

The city’s love of English has made it a business powerhouse so expect soaring skyscrapers and smart technology as part of the landscape. Incheon was also the first to welcome the Chinese and today the city’s Chinatown is one of the most vibrant and welcoming there is. A frenetic and exciting hybrid of Chinese and Korean heritage, it is said that Jjajangmyeon (black soy bean noodles), South Korea’s de facto national dish originates from here. Try a steaming bowl from one of the many vendors, then walk it off with the short 15-minute stroll from Chinatown to the traditional Sinpo Market for different kind of sensational feast. The city is steeped in history, notably in recent times during the Korean War. In 1950, the US general General MacArthur led UN forces behind enemy lines in freeing the city from North Korean pressure. MacArthur’s victory is commemorated by a statue in the Jaya (Freedom) Park. The city’s history of course goes back much further, with the first historical record dating as far back as 475 CE. At the time the city was called Michuhol, only changing its name to Incheon in 1413.

“A tapestry of kaleidoscopic colours, intense seafood flavours, and urban beach bliss, Busan rolls across a glorious natural setting on the Korean Peninsula’s south-east. One of the largest and busiest ports in the world, 3.5 million people call South Korea’s second city home, and the amiable locals help to lend the city its quirky, offbeat outlook. A spacious, playful and cosmopolitan place, Busan is a lively, liveable city, cradled by lush mountains and endless ocean scenery.

Haedong Yonggung Temple nestles on a dramatic cliffside, just above the crumbling rocks and crashing waves of the East Sea. Dating back to 1376, the temple’s multi-storey pagoda is adorned with lions – each representing a different emotion. Elsewhere, lanterns glitter in the night sky around Mount Geumjeongsan, freshly released from the beautiful Beomeosa Temple, which was established in AD 678. The hillside shantytown of Gamcheon Culture Village has completed an improbable transformation, blossoming from a sea of makeshift homes for Korean war refugees, into a colourful explosion of creativity and curiosity. Local artists have been let loose to create interactive installations, and the entire area is now an expansive canvas for expression. Lose yourself among vibrant alleyways of flamingo-pink, lemon-yellow and baby-blue painted facades in this unique area. Sample bibimbap, fiery-hot beef and rice, from street food vendors, before relaxing on one of South Korea’s best beaches – Haeundae’s banana bend of sand. Metallic skyscrapers offer an unusual backdrop to this pristine expanse of golden powder and are mirrored by elaborate sandcastles and sculptures during the annual sand festival – when spontaneous water fights and firework displays also take place. Gwangalli beach is another urban option, laying out spectacular views of the reaching Gwangan Bridge – the country’s second largest bridge. At night, 16,000 bulbs bathe this engineering marvel in colour.”